Matrixyl

Matrixyl: is the trademark name for one of the world’s most popular skin rejuvenation compounds known as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Pal-KTTKS). It was developed by Sederma SA and Proctor & Gamble and is a lipopeptide that combines a fatty acid with 5 linked amino acids. The fatty acid is used to increase the compound’s skin absorption.

It is currently one of the most effective peptide molecules used in the latest generation of high-end anti aging wrinkle creams. It is known to become more powerful when combined with other peptides.

How Was It Discovered?

The product was really discovered through the combined research of two areas of Dermatology – the study of wound healing and the study of the causes of wrinkles. The first area, wound healing, focuses on skin matrix components called fibroblasts.

When skin is wounded, these tiny cells begin repairing the structural framework of the skin tissue. In addition to their role in synthesizing the extracellular they are responsible for helping the body to re-generate new collagen - an important component of connective tissues.

As we age the fibroblasts do create less collagen but never completely lose their ability to create more. Even older people’s wounds will eventually heal. However, as we our collagen levels do dwindle, and our once tight, smooth skin dries out which inevitably leads to thinning and inelastic skin, lines and wrinkles. Collagen depletion is one of the main causes of wrinkles.

What Does It Do?

It is known help the lower skin layers to heal themselves. Fibroblasts are a type of cell that synthesizes collagen and our skin’s cellular ‘matrix’. It also plays an important role in wound healing. As we age our wounds take longer to heal since these fibroblasts lose their capacity for collagen renewal. Matrixyl can stimulate the skin "matrix" to begin producing more collagen. In large part it is the loss of collagen that leads to thinning skin, lines and wrinkling as we age.

Its makers claim it is equally effective to retinol in fighting wrinkles but without the skin irritation commonly associated with retinoids and alpha-hydroxy acids.

Early research on its wrinkle-reducing abilities brought it to attention at the 20th World Congress of Dermatology in Paris (Matrixyl 1999™). A six-month study, double-blind study conducted by cosmetic scientists revealed that 3% Matrixyl temporarily produced a significant reduction in moderate to deep wrinkles in 35 women aged 34 to 72.

The trial included five parameters:

Global area of wrinkles

Density of furrows

Volume of wrinkles

Mean depth of the main wrinkle

Roughness of skin.

Using several modern imaging techniques, including photometry and computer-assisted image analysis, these five markers were measured at the beginning of the study, at two months, four months, and again after six months.

The outcome was documented changes as dramatic as 68% for surface area occupied by deep wrinkles. The surface area occupied by moderate wrinkles was reduced by an average of 51% throughout the six months of testing. The results were also said to improve the longer the study participants used the product indicating that the peptide’s effect in the skin was progressive. What also caused great interest in the product was that every trial participant showed noticeable improvements within the first two weeks of use.

Other clinical studies of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 do exist but all of them have been conducted or sponsored by the manufacturers (Sedema and Proctor & Gamble). The trial indicated findings such as:

Overall collagen synthesis by up to 117%.

Hyaluronic acid synthesis by up to 267%.

Because these studies have been supported financially by the makers of the product you must always keep in mind the objectivity of the trial. There is, of course, a strong vested interest in positive findings for the manufacturer. This does not necessarily make the study’s findings biased, but obviously potential conflict of interest is always a concern. Unfortunately, this situation is typical in many types of tests certainly not limited to the skin care field.

According to Sederma SA, Pal-KTTKS has apparently undergone ‘five independent clinical trials’ which included more than 200 participants. However, as of the time of writing this I was unable to confirm the ‘independence’ of any of these trials.

Pal-KTTKS appears to be very interesting technology and has certainly been given a lot of attention in the ‘skin care’ press. It is promoted for its high potency and ‘lack of irritation’ qualities. Many products that are now promoted by celebrities include this ingredient and it can often be found on the ingredients list of a growing number of anti aging wrinkle cream products.